Hormones and skin: what's really going on under the surface

min read

Ever had your skin look completely different from one week to the next, with your routine staying exactly the same? Diet, sleep, weather and stress can all play a part, but one of the biggest and most overlooked factors is hormones. 1

Meet the hormones running the show

Estrogen: the glow booster

‍Estrogen is a big part of why skin can look plump, hydrated and "bouncing back" rather than tired. It helps build collagen and elastin, the proteins that keep skin firm and supports its ability to hold onto moisture.2 Everyone produces estrogen, just at different levels and when those levels drop, skin often starts to feel drier, thinner and less resilient.3 Menopause is an example of this: as estrogen declines, skin can lose collagen and moisture faster than age alone would explain.3,4

Progesterone: the puffiness culprit

In people who menstruate, progesterone rises in the second half of the cycle and can cause the skin to hold onto more fluid, sometimes showing up as puffiness or a slight uptick in oiliness.5

Androgens (including testosterone): the oil slick drivers

Androgens are one of the main hormone-related reason your T-zone can go rogue. The more active they are, the more sebum your glands pump out, which is part of why skin can suddenly go from balanced to shiny, especially around puberty.6 Everyone produces androgens, but men typically have much higher levels. This contributes to key differences in male and female skin, including oil production, thickness and resilience.

Cortisol: stress's way of showing up on your face

Cortisol isn't just associated with feeling stressed before a deadline. Prolonged elevations in cortisol have been linked to increased oil production, a weaker skin barrier and visible signs of skin ageing.7 In other words, a rough week might not only affect how you feel, but it can also affect how your skin feels, too.8

What's different about male skin?

Testosterone does more than control oil, it helps build the skin itself. It's a big part of why male skin runs thicker and denser than female skin, and holds onto collagen for longer.9,10

That advantage doesn't last forever. As testosterone declines with age (sometimes called andropause), skin starts to lose density and elasticity, with dryness or fine lines becoming more noticeable. 10,11  Because it happens slowly, this is often mistaken for normal ageing rather than a hormonal shift.

Higher androgen levels are also why acne isn't just a teenage issue for many men. Ongoing breakouts into your twenties, thirties and beyond are common and hormones are often a contributing factor, though other things like stress or product choice can play a role too.6  

So why does my skin change throughout the month?

If you menstruate, the follicular and luteal phases might be to blame. As estrogen rises through the first half of your cycle, skin tends to look clearer and more hydrated. Then, as progesterone and androgens take over in the second half, oil production increases, which is often part of why breakouts show up around the chin and jawline right before your period. 5,12

What can you do about it?

Hormonal fluctuation can't be avoided entirely, but there's a lot you can do to support your skin through it.

  • Keep your routine simple and consistent. Use a cleanser, moisturiser and apply SPF to keep your skin barrier strong enough to handle the ups and downs on its own.  
  • Track your patterns. Whether that's your cycle or just noticing when breakouts tend to flare, knowing your own patterns can help you get ahead of it rather than panic-Googling at 11pm.
  • Don't sleep on stress management. Since cortisol piles on top of your other hormonal shifts, things like movement, sleep and downtime aren't just good for your mind, they're doing your skin a favour too.
  • If it's persistent, get it checked out properly. The occasional breakout or dry patch is normal. But if changes to your skin are sticking around, getting worse, or affecting your confidence, it's worth chatting to a healthcare professional who can look at what's driving it and what your options are.

The takeaway

A lot of what shows up on your skin can be traced back to hormonal shifts that happen throughout life, from puberty and your monthly cycle to stress, ageing and everything in between. Hormones aren't the whole story (your skin responds to plenty of other things too), but understanding this piece of the puzzle can make sense of changes that might otherwise feel unpredictable.

Some fluctuation is a normal part of having hormones in the first place. But if something is persistent, worsening, or affecting your confidence, it's worth speaking to a healthcare professional who can help identify what's driving it and the right next step for you.

References

1. Hormonal Therapies in Cosmetic Dermatology: Mechanisms, Clinical Applications, and Future Perspectives. Cosmetics. 2025.  

2. Unveiling estrogen's role: a comprehensive review of its impact on skin health and disease. 2026.  

3. Managing Menopausal Skin Changes: A Narrative Review of Skin Quality Changes, Their Aesthetic Impact, and the Actual Role of Hormone Replacement Therapy in Improvement. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025.  

4. Menopause and the effects of Hormone Replacement Therapy on skin aging: A Short Review. 2024.

5. Physiological Changes in Women's Skin During the Menstrual Cycle: A Scoping Review. 2025.  

6. A Comprehensive Review: The Bidirectional Role of Sebum in Skin Health. Bioengineering. 2026.  

7. Impact of Chronic Moderate Psychological Stress on Skin Aging: Exploratory Clinical Study and Cellular Functioning. 2025.  

8. Psychological Stress Deteriorates Skin Barrier Function by Activating 11β-Hydroxysteroid Dehydrogenase 1 and the HPA Axis.  

9. Transcriptomic and epigenetic assessment of ageing male skin identifies disruption of Ca2+ homeostasis; exacerbated by smoking and UV exposure. 2022.  

10. Modulating testosterone pathway: a new strategy to tackle male skin aging? Clin Interv Aging. 2012.  

11. Collagen Supplements in Skin Aging and Treatment — A Narrative Review. Applied Sciences. 2026.

12. Menstrual cycle phases and acne flares: A retrospective analysis in Indian women. 2025.

Disclaimer: This information is not intended to be used as medical advice or a substitute for your own practitioner's advice, nor is it intended to be used for diagnosis or treatment for any illness/disease.